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A flashy, imaginative dining destination opened downtown in time for holiday soirees. Besa earns online applause in its first two weeks.
The two-level restaurant in the Vinton Building, 600 Woodward Ave., offers unusual creations by executive chef Kyle Schutte, such as coconut udon with squid ink, caramelized eggplant with braised hominy and duck with carrot puree. Ten entrees are $17-$48, while three pasta choices are $17-$22. Some dishes are in a gallery of 13 photos below.
Among side plates on the one-page dinner menu are pumpkin puree, polenta and asparagus ($7-$11). A raw bar has oysters, prawn ceviche and ahi.
The newcomer uses two levels of the Vinton Building, a 1917 landmark designed by Albert Kahn at Woodward and Congress. (Instagram by Joanne McNary, posted with permission)
"Menu is unique," Patricia Amicucci of Macomb Township says in a Facebook endorsement. "Our dining experience was superb," posts Steven Adelson of Farmington Hills. "Very creative starters, appetizers, soups, salads and entrees. . . . Design and detail of restaurant is beautiful."
At Yelp, Ryan S. of Detroit gives it five stars and says: "Fantastic experience. Menu was interesting and all plates were delicious. We especially enjoyed the lamb porchetta. Melon sauce cut through the rich meat. Incredible!"
The newcomer opened Oct. 29 in a 1917 landmark skyscraper designed by Albert Kahn at Woodward and Congress. It has 135 seats, plus eight blue velvet high chairs at a small bar.
Two of the four owners, Mario Camaj and Gerti Begaj, are managing partners. Camaj also operates Tallulah Wine Bar and Bistro in downtown Birmingham. The other partrners are brothers Edi and Etrit Demaj.
The name Besa, reflecting the owners' heritage, is an Albanian cultural concept that means a pledge of honor or keeping a promise. At the restaurant's website, the owners define it as "our guests before ourselves."
Kyle Schutte is a past "Cutthroat Kitchen" victor. (Besa photo)
Schutte, the chef behind the innovative menu, grew up in Virginia, earned a culinary arts degree in Atlanta and worked at restaurants in Leeburg, Va., (Tuscarora Mill), Atlanta (ONE Midtown Kitchen), Marina del Ray, Calif. (Vū), Los Angeles (54Twenty and Wood & Vine) and Beverly Hills (The Flats). He also was a 2014 winner on the Food Network's "Cutthroat Kitchen" show.
Besa, which says lunch and brunch are "coming soon," opens at 4 p.m. every day except Sunday. It shuts at 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and stays open an hour longer Thursday through Saturday.
At DBusiness, editor R.J. King describes the layout:
The main level includes a dining room furnished with tabletops, booths, marble finishes, glass lights, a bar area with high-top tables, and a raw bar.
The lower-level lounge offers tables and couches and a 12-seat chef's table dining room for private parties.
Plates from Schutte's kitchen are Instagram-ready, as the two-week-old restaurant shows at its page there and on its site. These 13 photos are from those sources and Bedrock Detroit, its landlord:
A view of the main floor from behind the raw bar.
Invited guests at a soft opening in late October.
Another view of last month's preview event.
Left: Rutabaga roasted in Michigan honey vinegar, garnished with bitter honeycomb succulents.
Right: Salmon-confitted pork belly with rosemary and white bean macarons.
Oysters, flown in daily, are $4 each and served with pickled mustard seed and bacon mignonette.
Seared scallops over Masa polenta with braised bacon, pearl onions, Gochujang chilii and whitre chocolate sauce ($29).
Coconut udon with squid ink and black garlic cream ($18).
Half duck with carrot puree and charred pearl onion $48).
Olives, almonds and cheese-stuffed fig slices are a starter ($18).
Roasted baby carrots ($9).
Red baby beets salad ($13).
Ice cream and fresh fruit.
