Food & Drink

Gallery: Detroit newcomer in West Village serves Latin-style carryout meals

January 18, 2021, 9:55 AM


Roasted half-chicken comes with jicama and cabbage curtido (slaw), tortillas and rice for $17. See four other dishes below. (Photos: Metropolitan Variety Store)

The West Village neighborhood four miles east of downtown Detroit gains a "multipurpose" food business, as Metropolitan Variety Store calls itself.

The Agnes Street venture is run by the chefs behind Gold Cash Gold, a Corktown restaurant that folded last February. It starts with carryout and curbisde pickup of meals ordered online and will add a dining room, bar and adjacent grocery where Craft Work restaurant had been.

It's open fours days each week from mid-afternoon to 9 p.m. for now. Chefs Hailey Enszer and Brendon Edwards hope to start sit-down dining and bar service this spring "with a little luck," Eater Detroit editor Brenna Houck posts.


The Agnes Street location is between Parker and Van Dyke.

"I excited to be in the kitchen again and to be a part of the community," Enszer says. "We both got into this industry because we like cooking for people."

The menu includes eggplant or pork tortas, beef and roasted squash tortas, a vegan burrito, charred broccoli and beets salad, and two soups. (See four more photos below.)

The chefs and three partners await a license transfer from the Michigan Liquor Control Commission, according to Eater.

The basics:

  • Address: 8047 Agnes St., between Parker Street and Van Dyke Avenue
  • Hours: 3-9 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday
  • Website: Online ordering
  • Phone:  (313) 469-0976

Photos from the kitchen:


Grilled broccoli and roasted beets with cheve goat cheese and spiced puffed rice ($5)

Crispy eggplant tortas with cilantro pesto and  queso fresco, or braised achiote pork tortas ($11-$13)

Queso Fundido (bubbly cheese dip) with tortilla chips ($9)

 



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